Between sea and fire: Vulcano’s wines

Here wine production has a long tradition of hundreds of years. In almost all the Aeolian islands, like Salina, Lipari, Vulcano and the smallest Panarea and Filicudi there is a sort of heroic viticulture, so defined because vineyards seem to climb steep terraces lapped by the sea.

These are the places that give birth to the wine known as Passito di Malvasia delle Lipari, one of the most elegant and noble wines of this land, whose golden yellow-amber color reminds that of a jewel. Malvasia delle Lipari cultivar and a small percentage of Corinto Nero grapes are used for its production. In the summertime, the whole grapes are sun-dried in typical cane grates (in Sicilian dialect “cannizzi”)  for 15-20 days in order to dehydrate berries and concentrate sugars. Late harvest is less frequent. The intense scent, intriguing aromas with notes of apricot, figs, and dried fruits are the main features of this wine.

Punta Aria is the sole winery on the island where wines are entirely produced and bottled. 17 years ago Francangelo Pollastri decided to revive a place which in the past had been famous for its unique beauty and its high-quality grapes and which, for too long, had been abandoned (here there were only brushwood, some ruins, and a deserted beach). Visitors can have the possibility to stay in the winery’s farmhouse.

“We try to tell the authenticity of this place, which is very different from the rest of Sicily- explains Mauro Pollastri, the owner of the cellar -. The first time I came here I felt I was living like Ulysses in the adventures narrated in the Odyssey. Truly unique places that I recommend to those looking for a peaceful place in contact with nature”.

Paola Lantieri also decided to bet on viticulture in Vulcano, by settling her company Punta dell'Ufala. Her Malvasia wine is the product of an agriculture that respects the land and her love for Vulcano. “I think that the only true answer to the deep crisis that is affecting every aspect of our lives is returning to the land- Paola says - I started from this assumption when in 2003 I decided to implant my vineyard anew. I wanted to restore the identity and dignity of my beloved island. Vulcano and my vineyard represent a place of peace for me”.

Vineyards are surrounded by breathtaking landscapes. After tasting some glasses of wine together with the producers and some typical dishes of the Aeolian tradition based on capers, olives, and fish, you can enjoy a magnificent walk, perhaps accompanied by a guide.

This is also the ideal place to practice trekking: it is pleasant zigzagging among the green brooms whose color contrasts with the black of the sandy soil made of ash and lapilli. Once arrived up to the Great Crater you will be enchanted by astonishing views!


Gianna Bozzali
www.coloursofsicily.com